Swimming to Lundy by Amanda Prowse
I started listening to Amanda Prowse’s book set in Ilfracombe on the National Express coach from London to Barnstable. The family drama is a perfect light read for a journey or holiday.
Characters in Swimming to Lundy
Tawrie: main protagonist
Bear: Tawrie’s love interest
Connie: Tawrie’s cousin
Needle: friend of Connie and Tawrie
The Peacocks: Wild Swimming Group in Ilfracombe
Maudie: member of the Peacocks
Ocean Back Packers near Fore Street
I stayed at the Ocean Back Packers. It is an eco friendly, independent hostel owned by Alexandra McWilliam Brice. She also owns the Proper Marmalade Company which makes delicious, artisan preserves. Alex’s interest in cooking is reflected in the accommodation’s kitchen which is the best I have used in a hostel. It even has Ninja equipment.
Ocean Back Packers side entrance is next to the Ropery car park behind which is Fore Street where Tawrie’s family home backs on to in Prowse’s book: a perfect setting if you are reading Swimming to Lundy. Fore Street is of historical significance and the location of the George and Dragon pub dating back to 1360
Ilfracombe’s Beaches
On my first walk around Ilfracombe, I was confused. As the title suggests Tawrie wild swims, but I couldn’t find any suitable beaches:
- Wildesmouth beach near Capstone Hill advises against swimming due to pollution
- Children were in the sea around the harbour but I doubted this was the Peacock’s daily swimming venue
- There is a charge at Tunnels beaches
My mission for the first day was set.
Verity by Damien Hirst
Tawrie and Bear use Verity as a meeting place: like the clock at Waterloo station you can’t miss it.
I viewed the statue up close; from afar on Lantern Hill whilst standing near St Michael’s chapel; and whilst on the promenade eating award winning fish and chips from the Dolphin restaurant.
Verity made me think of the bewildering concept of human beings growing inside mother’s for nine months, and the plight of women bearing children.
The pregnant woman stands on books of law, holds a sword in one hand, and scales of justice in another.
Interestingly, Tawrie dreams of being a midwife. She also has issues with trust.
Climbing up the Sleeping Elephant of Hillsborough
I tried Woolacombe Bay for a swim, but the tide being out there was only wet sand to lay my towel on; and with each strong, incoming wave a large number of bodyboards were rolling in. I returned to Ilfracombe. My fellow dormers told me that after the Lime Kiln restaurant it was just 20 minutes to Hele Bay. I set off.
At the restaurant I took the coastal path thinking this would be the quickest route. Dog walkers used to the climb past me along with an energetic Australian family. The heat and hill affecting me I was about to give up. I feebly took a photo of the town from above and sat down on a bench. A Collie dog came to cheer me and I decided to continue.
My Descent to the Beach
Still not sure if I was heading to Hele Bay or about to scramble down to a secluded cove, I started walking down. The route wound around sycamore trees giving welcome shade, and was well laid. Now my hike became enjoyable, and I even saw a Bloody Nosed Beetle.
I heard the beach before I saw it through the trees. On first sighting I knew this was the setting for the Peacock swimmers.
Swimming at Hele Bay
I was more than ready for a dip in the calm waters of this bay. Getting in slowly I thought of Maudie’s advice to Tawrie on her first swim:
‘Don’t over think it.’
’Once you’ve got your bits in, you are almost there.’
Like always I couldn’t believe how sublime it is once the initial shock has gone and I am fully submerged. It was truly worth the hike.
On the way back, I was fortunate to catch the last bus. Then I realised that if you go by road it is not too far, especially if you have a bike like Tawrie.
Lundy Island
I got to Lundy island. If you go, be prepared for a rather remote but magical day. From the ferry we saw a dolphin; then on the way up to the cafe we all noticed a basking shark; and when queuing for the return trip seals came out to say goodbye.
Managing to walk to the midway line of the island, I saw the Old Light and Jenny’s Cove. The puffins had gone for the season but all the other animals we saw, as well as the flowers, made up for it.
When I go again, I will have a day more like Needle does in Swimming to Lundy, when he goes over in his boat. My itinerary would include a lift up to the Marisco Tavern in the Landrover where I would have a meal and drink; have a look inside the church; wander back down and try to find the Lundy Cabbage; and finally have a swim on the beach at the Landing Bay.
To find out if Tawrie got to Lundy, you will need to read the book.
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